In abundant years, additional special wines are made from single vineyards, some up to 100 percent mourvedre.

There are still inexpensive Valpolicellas on the market, but a good classico from a single vineyard can cost $20 or more.

The smallest geographical unit in German wine law representing a single vineyard.

Some wineries go even further and identify the single vineyard from which their grapes were grown.

Einzellage, single vineyard, of which there are about 2 600.

Marcel Guigal was an early pioneer in single vineyard bottling.

Neither wine offers the pleasure of tracking the flavors of a single vineyard over time.

Still others follow the California style of producing wines from a single vineyard.

The more expensive pinot noirs, which can run upwards of $50, tend to come from single vineyards.

"Their job was vital, but the vinously minded historian will note that it did not take them near a single vineyard of quality," he said.