Favelas are best visited in the company of savvy guides who know the area and the customs well.

These days, however, it also has a reputation for very real lawlessness and a trip into its guts, without an extremely savvy guide, is not recommended.

These walks are usually short and nonstrenuous (two to three miles), And with a savvy guide who knows history, architecture and local gossip, you'll get a quick inside scoop on the city and its inhabitants.

Excellent guided hikes and rock climbs with enthusiastic, savvy guides.

We are now into the umpteenth annual "Gifts of Gab" column, the avidly awaited, savvy and invaluable guide to holiday giving for word lovers.