It is usually made with a paper-thin crust, but at Passover Mrs. Steinberg uses a thick cashew nut matzo meal batter with a guava-paste filling.

The shrimp, basil, assorted vegetables and, most of all, eggplant pizzas have paper-thin crusts and exquisitely earthy flavors.

The chicken-fried steak is a cardiologist's nightmare, a glutton's dream, and Miss Gladys's amazing pecan and blueberry pies take the blue ribbon for paper-thin crusts.

The paper-thin crust on the grilled pizza ($9) remained crisp under its add-ons: spicy chicken, vegetable hash, cilantro, mojo and Jack cheese.

Pintaile's, which has several branches in Manhattan, specializes in pizzas with crisp, paper-thin crusts that are light in calories and heft yet full of flavor.

The desserts at Incognico don't sound special either, but apple tart on a paper-thin crust delivers the goods.

Unfortunately, the paper-thin crust quickly became soggy from its overload, and the entire dish, though generous enough for two, was surfeited with more globby, rubbery cheese than anything else.

Dessert was memorable: a fig tart with a rich, paper-thin crust and a little dollop of praline ice cream on the side.

The first is a paper-thin tart crust, buttery and fragile, layered with juicy slices of poached pear over a bed of ground almonds.

The paper-thin crust was flaky, with a satisfying crunch at the edges.