By historical standards, at least, the French grapes should have been the interlopers.

Yet, when the industry came of age its focus was almost wholly on French grapes, perhaps because Italian wines were held in such low esteem.

The use of traditional French grapes, particularly cabernet sauvignon, has been one of Italy's most important wine developments.

This French white made from chenin blanc grapes is clean, austere and still a bit tight.

For the longest time, it was thought to be related to an obscure French grape called the durif.

Over 40% of French grape vines and vineyards were devastated over a 15-year period, from the late 1850s to the mid-1870s.

What's more, scientists for years insisted that the petite sirah was the same as the durif, an obscure French grape.

Today there are dozens of these proprietary wines made in Chianti, using both French and Italian grapes.

After all, cabernet sauvignon is known in Italian as the uva francese, the French grape.

The French grape won't be abandoned entirely, however.