(Don't miss, for example, gnocchi alla salvia, light potato dumplings in a rich brown butter and fresh sage sauce.)

There was a browned butter and sage sauce, for example, over house-made tortelli filled with squash.

Among main courses are sweetbreads in white wine sauce and sauteed calf's liver with a brown butter and sage sauce.

Lamb chops, grilled to a turn, were best without bitter sage sauce.

Florentine gnudi - sticky balls of spinach and ricotta - take a classic butter and sage sauce.

Ordinary, too, were medallions of pork in a sage sauce and grilled loin of lamb stacked with eggplant and goat cheese.

Also succulent is the veal chop, which is glazed with a sage sauce and escorted by crispy risotto cakes.

Try the foie de veau, pan-fried calf's liver topped with bacon in a sage sauce (£16.80)

Other entrees include salmon steak in radicchio and ravioli filled with asparagus in a brown butter and sage sauce.

They came close to redemption with their creamy filling of spinach and ricotta and their diabolically delicious butter and fresh sage sauce.