In slowly expanding, Bass is moving beyond the model of L. L. Bean, built around its huge mail-order operation and one big store in Maine.

"You have to have a sophisticated mail-order operation to follow through."

It had a large mail-order operation that was a key to its early success.

But this is no regular mail-order operation.

Over the years he made the transition from a retailer with a small mail-order operation to the leader of an integrated business with manufacturing, distributing and retailing divisions.

Noncommercial organizations -the Veterans Administration and the American Association of Retired Persons - run two of the largest mail-order operations.

Both the commercial and noncommercial mail-order operations buy in bulk from drug manufacturers at discounted prices.

In the often frustrating hunt for one video or another, the shortest route to an elusive tape often leads to the right mail-order operation.

Until last fall, Mr. Johnson, 50, had been chairman and chief executive of the Fingerhut Companies, a large mail-order operation, for a decade.

Because it is not a typical mail-order operation, there is no need to print or ship thousands of catalogues several times a year to potential customers.