Issues with the mahoosive train aside (she enlisted a flunkey-slash-bridesmaid to help carry it), she managed to keep it pristine, despite looking properly sloshed.

The portion size was utterly mahoosive - three fillets of fish, a giant cloud of mash, four butterball mussels (I looked for their tiny Loch Fyne labels, but they must've been snipped out), oceans of creamy sauce, peas and, incongruously, halved cherry tomatoes.

Ex-butcher Mark Gevaux sells ribs and only ribs, either as smokey, tender racks, or wraps, or utterly mahoosive rib meat rolls, the ribs shredded expertly by hand, meat almost jumping off the bones.