Roasted duck, though, served over a mash of plantains and onions, was full of flavor.

Peking duck served with sweet bean sauce (the dark sauce in the two small white dishes)

One duck will serve as a sentry, watching for predators as the others in the group dive in search of food.

(Braised duck served with mustard greens, oddly enough, was tough and chewy.)

Mr. Latapie later explained that the man had told him he wanted his duck served in 10 minutes.

Specialties of the house include poultry, particularly duck served in a variety of ways.

A whole duck for two, served with apples plump with butter.

Cinnamon-and-plum-tea-smoked duck is more smoky than fruity, but good nonetheless, served with an excellent melange of Oriental vegetables.

Price range: Appetizers $2.75 to $8.50, main courses $10.95 to $19.95 (many platters serve two; Peking duck, for $28, serves three or more).

The ducks are impeccably carved and served (the carving alone is worth the experience).