The duck rolls are indeed leaner than most, but still moist and delicious.

On our last visit, the crispy aromatic duck roll was superb, while honey-glazed lamb cutlets with crispy lotus was of a similarly high standard but low size.

The scope of the menu is on the same scale, stretching across Indochina (and beyond) to offer fish tikka in pandanus leaves, Peking-style duck rolls and a crisp green-papaya salad that was the best I've tasted outside Thailand.

But I liked the rich Peking duck rolls and a salad with big, salty hunks of braised pork belly.

This small licensed cafe serves up a global menu, from gourmet burgers and fish and chips to Thai noodles and Asian duck rolls.

Orbit has opened at 2257 First Avenue (116th Street) in East Harlem, with an eclectic menu (duck rolls, filet mignon, egg burritos) and an open mike on Thursday nights.

Asia was represented by pot stickers, crispy duck rolls and tuna sashimi.

The crispy duck rolls, drizzled with a spicy sweet chili sauce, were a crunchy hit, but clams oreganato are best forgotten.

A dim sum platter included juicy Shanghai dumplings, delicate chive dumplings and crispy duck rolls, all very tasty, although the pastry was a bit thicker than it is in the very best places in Taiwan.

Artisanal cheese plates, mock duck rolls, cornmeal-crusted walleye strips and organic oatmeal melt in the mouth.