Mild yet perceptible spices, a quick last-minute crisping in a hot pan and a lick of deliciously pungent cilantro sauce took them out of the ordinary.

A special of grilled swordfish with an accompanying cilantro sauce sparked with poblano chiles was truly special.

Sometimes they are too busy, but many combinations work well, like mussels in a spicy pepper and cilantro sauce dotted with crisp croutons.

Tamalitos verdes ($4.95), Peruvian tamales made with cornmeal, bite-size roast pork and cilantro sauce, are tame by comparison.

Even the meaty crabcakes carry an invigorating blast of cayenne along with a bright cilantro sauce.

Hope rises again on encountering the shrimp and lobster spring roll, wrapped in a crackling crisp pastry sheet and subtly flavored with a lemon-lime cilantro sauce.

Hara maatch, an entree, consisted of salmon perfectly steamed in a banana leaf, served with an intense cilantro sauce.

I especially like a bowl of mussels in a spicy pepper and cilantro sauce dotted with crisp croutons.

Another special, clam fritters, is surprisingly light and tasty with a cilantro dipping sauce as a lily gilder.

Camarones chipotle ($9.95) - shrimp in a tomato, chili and cilantro sauce - were delicious, though not smoky as the menu describes them.