(If you can't find baby leeks, substitute the tender centers of standard leeks.)

Spanish mackerel was embellished with tiny potatoes, baby leeks and caviar.

The chef, Andrew Weissman, emphasizes seafood entrees - monkfish on braised baby leeks is one of his signature dishes.

Salmon is offered two ways, crusted in truffles and served with baby leeks and sweet-corn agnolotti, or done spa-style, grilled with steamed vegetables.

Swordfish is likewise superb, in a light saline soy butter sauce with grilled baby leeks.

Try the steamed halibut fillet with girolles, potato confit and baby leeks (£65 for three courses)

Try them in dishes such as pork fillet with roast potato and baby leeks, two courses £14.

Next time, I want to try Hakka stew, made with braised organic pork belly, five spice, woodear mushrooms, baby leeks and garlic.

But the salt cod - not mashed but broken into little pieces - with potato, black truffle and baby leeks was exciting too.

Snapper with caramelized persimmon, for example, has a spicy Thai quality, with the heat subtly woven into a bed of thin-sliced baby leeks and enoki.