The tagliarini, so rich in egg yolks, are a bright yellow, cut fine as string and tossed in a sauce of porcini and parsley.

But dried morels are preferable in a risotto or tossed with asparagus in a morel-flavored sauce.

Tossed together in a sweet-and-sour sauce, the tastes and textures are endlessly intriguing.

Some restaurants remove the shells and toss the tail meat in a salad or a steaming sauce.

Less rewarding was a special of utterly bland black-pepper linguine tossed with smoked seafood and tomatoes in a creamy sauce.

They are then tossed briefly in a curry sauce and served warm.

The roasted wild mushroom bruschetta, tossed in a sauce of garlic, port wine and aged balsamic vinegar, was heavy and bland.

Rojak is a fruit and vegetable salad tossed in a special sauce.

An effective anodyne to all the heat is matter paneer, or mild fresh cheese tossed with peas in a sweet-edged sauce.

One is spaghetti tossed in a sauce made with lemon juice, olive oil and Parmesan, mixed so that it forms an emulsion.