With its smoke-stained walls, paper tablecloths and grandmotherly cooking, Chez Paul doesn't take kindly to change.

But Cafe Sperl, Gumpendorferstrasse 11-13, is the real thing, with faded velvet banquettes, smoke-stained walls and famously slow service.

Today, students still gather beneath the ornate mirrors, gilded ceiling and smoke-stained walls to enjoy a sudsy break from classes.

Only 18 months ago birch trees were still growing among the palace's few remaining, smoke-stained walls.

Fresh paint covers smoke-stained walls.

Lewis ended up at a small inn with smoke-stained walls and windows that were never cleaned.

In the center a smoldering fire was maintained, which women could feed with extra wood when a flame forcookingwas required, 'and along the smoke-stained walls hung.

Rowanoak looked bleakly around at the ruined, smoke-stained walls of Marshank, where not one foe-beast had been left alive.

The third piece to be salvaged is part of a smoke-stained wall on which the words "Yellow Parking B2," in Helvetica type, are still plainly visible.

Inside, brown leather banquettes, smoke-stained walls and giant mirrors add to the period atmosphere.