Above: New potatoes in a creamy morel sauce.

Even the innocent-sounding morel sauce for the veal loin had been spiked, oh so gently, with chilies.

Spoon the morel sauce over it, and serve.

A wood-grilled Angus rib-eye was bathed in a red-wine reduction, a creamy morel sauce and then truffle butter.

Here again, they divided the labor: One prepared the morel sauce; the other, the corn.

You can choose from sandwiches and snacks or steaks and more involved mains; think chicken with smoked bacon or black tagliatelle with morel sauce.

It would be a mistake to order, as a starter, sweetbreads with balsamic vinaigrette when as an entree they come with morel sauce.

Sauteed pears in a caramelized morel sauce provoked discussion: my companion thought the mushrooms added nothing; I found the woodsy accent intriguing.

Another recommendation is the medallions of tender veal and perfectly cooked veal kidneys in a light yet earthy morel sauce.

Cut the chicken into 8 serving pieces, arrange them on the platter and pour the morel sauce over them.