Subtle sweetbread ravioli ($6) come in a leek sauce with delicious, pungent button mushrooms marinated in herbs and olive oil.

There was only praise, too, for the roasted Norwegian salmon escorted by two heads-on giant shrimp, spears of white asparagus and a brilliantly green leek sauce.

The sensational tuna was presented atop a spring-green leek sauce and sported a crisp, tempura-battered scallion rising from a mound of horseradish-mashed potatoes.

Teamed with the classic southern Italian quartet of garlic, chilies, parsley and oil, this leek sauce is delicious.

Two favorites are the seafood ravioli in a subtle leek sauce, and tagliolini in an explosively fresh pesto sauce.

There is leek sauce made by blanching and pureeing the greens, sauteing them lightly in a tiny amount of oil and adding chicken stock.

It's also what makes a leek sauce at Colina seem so rich and refined.

And for a main course, the moist grilled swordfish topped with a delicate leek sauce is subtle and superb.

The Istrians have a talent for turning humble vegetables into complex sauces like the tagliatelle with leek sauce that Bastianich serves in her restaurant.

For an appetizer, I had the seared foie gras in a pear brandy, muscat and leek sauce.