Brasserie 44-you know, down by the river-or La Grillade, until it moved.

Such a dish is the grillade des mariniers, for which I have given a recipe on p.252 of the present volume.

The smell of coffee and grillade.

In contrast, the grillade de crevettes a la Provencale, grilled shrimp with potatoes, garlic and olives, was so salty I could barely swallow it.

LA GRILLADE in Glenford, seven miles west of the Kingston exit of the Gov. Thomas E. Dewey Thruway.

But I was surprised not to find La Grillade on Route 28 outside Kingston, transplanted from Eighth Avenue in New York, or Green and Bresler's in Red Hook, a storefront restaurant with trendy but tasty dishes.

During our stay, we discovered that not only was the food wonderful - another waterfront restaurant, Le Corail, serves superb langouste grillade (grilled lobster) - but the beaches, especially at Capesterre, about five and a half miles from Grand Bourg, are among the best in the Caribbean.