The biggest issue was keeping Bea at bay: I have finally experienced irresistible food envy.

And in a restaurant, it alleviates the agony of "food envy," experienced when your companion's meal outshines the one you have ordered.

Choosing the fuisilli al pollo e gamberetti (£8.30), which came beautifully presented, once the calzone (£8.10) was placed opposite me the inevitable food envy kicked in.

The best part, she added, is the chance for her son to experience food envy from the other side: "For people with food allergies, it is time that everybody wants what they have."

Some of the book's most thrilling moments, however, occur when Diner breaks step, as when she describes the reciprocal food envy of the Italians and Jews in East Harlem or, in a lengthy digression, compares the eating styles of Ojibwa Indians, Mexicans, Jews and blacks.

Still, BBQ Champ remains entirely watchable thanks to Richman's charm - but be sure to have a big plate of meat handy or you'll be left with serious food envy.