Place a little lumpfish roe on top of each potato and serve.

Garnish the tartlets with lumpfish roe, slices of olives or capers.

Salmon and lumpfish roe are worth $1 an ounce; under its own name, catfish roe is worthless.

On top is piled a mound of shrimp, which is then decorated with a dollop of mayonnaise, sliced cucumber, caviar or blackened lumpfish roe, and a lemon slice.

Beluga caviar is selling for $32 an ounce wholesale and lumpfish roe for $1 an ounce, and the Food and Drug Administration says that someone in the New York region is making a pretty penny selling the latter as the former.

But both flavors - beluga, black and a little small, and osetra, gray and genuine-looking - are certainly better than the dyed black lumpfish roe used to decorate inexpensive hors d'oeuvres, and they would add the impression of luxury to a sauce or scrambled eggs.