Over-fishing by poachers is threatening the survival of Caspian sturgeon stocks, the source of most of the world's supply of caviar.

Along the Atlantic Coast, recognition of a decline in sturgeon stocks came earlier to some Southern states.

Environmental groups are alarmed about decreasing sturgeon stocks, though some caviar dealers say the numbers are not so clear.

"There is concern along the East Coast that sturgeon stocks are declining very rapidly," Ms. Hattala said.

"However, ensuring that sturgeon stocks recover to safe levels will take decades of careful fisheries management and an unrelenting struggle against poaching and illegal trade."

After sturgeon stocks declined sharply in the 1990s, Cites began regulating the caviar trade in 1998.

Currently, sturgeon stocks are heavily depleted and under constant pressure from poaching.

But sating the appetite for the luxury may take an even heavier toll on the sturgeon stock than it does on the pocketbook.

Before, a central authority controlled the caviar industry and protected the sturgeon stock and, ultimately, the consumer.

Under a 2002 agreement, the countries must prove that they have sound conservation plans and that the quota request is based on realistic estimates of sturgeon stock.