The mousseline sauce might have been mixed at Maxim's.

And a lovely slab of halibut took nicely to lavish mousseline sauce.

Asparagus, in a truffle-scented mousseline sauce, were huge (as well they should have been for $12 apiece); I had five.

Appetizers include a truffled "omelet soufflé" with mousseline sauce.

The menu includes shrimp broiled with a mousseline sauce on whole-grain grits, $16, and pecan-coated quail, also $16.

Poached Salmon with Mousseline Sauce, Cucumbers Fourth Course

The flavors are Creole-Cajun with dishes like roast duck, dirty rice and honey pecan gravy ($18) and broiled drumfish with crabmeat crust in a lemon mousseline sauce ($16).

His recently updated menu includes marinated chicken in a dill mousseline, steamed shrimp with tarragon mousseline sauce and steamed halibut with assorted greens in a herb vinaigrette.

They were interrupted by the arrival of the cutlets, accompanied by asparagus with mousseline sauce, and by one of the famous Kriendler brothers who have owned '21' ever since it was the best speak-easy in New York.

Lunch offerings include Armenian meat pie and a bowl of vichyssoise; dinner choices include clams Catalonian-style in lobster, brandy, tomato and cayenne sauce, and paella valenciana or seafood, and poached sole in white wine with shellfish and mousseline sauce.

D'Arry's Verandah From the moment the amuse-gueule arrives - on my recent visit, a tiny golden croquette of potato puree with confit of quail, on a dollop of mustard mousseline sauce - you know your palate is about to embark on a rare adventure.

Valentine's Day starters include warm asparagus with hen of the woods mushroom, truffle and porcini mousseline sauce; Maine lobster salad with grapefruit, hearts of palm and Holland yellow peppers; and slow-roasted shiitake mushroom tart with haricots verts, shallots and black truffles.