At the same time, there is a counter-movement in this country to identify wines with their source.

In 1988, a group of American vintners formed The Meritage Association to identify wines made in this way.

Because so many Americans identify wines by the grapes, many French producers discreetly add "chardonnay" to their labels.

Len Evans transformed the blind tasting of wine into a competition sport through his creating and developing the options game in which competitors attempt to identify wines.

The QWpsr category identifies wines with protected geographical indications.

Which again brings into question the wisdom of depending on grape names to identify wines.

(European restrictions on place names force the Australians to follow the California lead of identifying wines by grape varieties.)

The book identifies wines labeled trocken (dry) and halbtrocken (semidry), which tend to go especially well with food.

The entire discussion of good and bad chardonnay illustrates a serious flaw in our practice of identifying wines by the grape they're made from.

Indeed, they are the principal means of identifying almost all serious American wines.